I have not used the H5 but the H7 just pushes up. You have to use a screwdriver to push it the last bit. Also if the ceiling material is thick it may not work.

 

The ceiling drywall seems to be standard size, I didn't measure it though. I tried pushing up with a screwdriver but it didn't help. I'm thinking maybe if I take the rubber/sponge tape off the clips they might lock in. Was hoping someone had run into this before.

 

I used some a few weeks ago.. you have to really jam the retaining clip up with a skinny screwdriver..

It took me a few times for it to hold.. a real PIA for sure..

 

Did your clips have the sponge tape on them?

 

Ive had the same issues, I'm always worried I'm gonna break the sheetrock while trying to push up. That would really $#%$ things up for sure.

 

The sponge has nothing to do with getting the clip down all the way... Simply to
Make the can air tight.

If the clip is difficult on standard thickness ceiling, the hole for the can is too tight. The lower portion of the clip that travels inside the thin vertical slot needs a bit of room to rotate. Either enlarge the hole just a hair, or with one hand, try to push the can in the opposite direction of the difficult clip, then try it.

Jamming it in with a screw driver is never a good idea. It can easily damage the housing itself or the impact can jack up the drywall. Just the last little bit on the clip is all you wanna use the screwdriver for.

 

Those clips are a bitch but if you can shave the hole a little bigger it will make it a little easier .

Hopefully someone will invent a clip that you can tighten with a screw gun..:thumbsup:

 

Hopefully someone will invent a clip that you can tighten with a screw gun..:thumbsup:

Contrast lighting makes some great remodel cans that go in with a Phillips. Best remodel cans ever! I put in 11 today in no time with zero cursing or trying to jam the clips. Slide 'me up, use the drill to spin the screws tight and done. Less than a minute per can to put them up and they stay tight forever. I use them exclusively for 4".

http://www.contrastlighting.com/en/pdf/CA2000.pdf

 

I use a screw driver and linemans to bang em in... Ive put in hundreds this way..In plaster and lath, plaster and wire mesh, sheet rock. as long as the hole you made is nice and snug you shouldnt have a problem. You can however run into problems if you make the hole to big.. When you bang on it to set the feet you will run the risk of pushing the whole can up through the hole.. Unfortunatly ive become somewhat of a pro with halo cut in cans..

 

I'm supposed to be there at 9:00am, see you there. I'll tell them I had to bring in a specialist!:thumbup::laughing:

 

Never had a problem with the Lightolier 1004/1104's. Especially with the addition of the special hole saw kit. :thumbup:

 

do they make those in five inch and what do they cost with trim and bulb..?

 

Steve O could answer that one for you. I am just the installer so far. I'm pretty sure they are more expensive than Halo, but IMO the trims are much nicer.

 

Also, if you are partial to the Wagos and NM clips on the Halos, the Contraste will be a letdown. They require connectors and wire nuts.

 

That's the one thing that sucks with these. You need to supply a connector and you've got to make the splices inside. No wagos in these but the JB is nice and big with two, 1/2" knockouts and a 3/8.

 

HFC- This is the way to do it.

 

HFC- This is the way to do it.

what a butcher that guy is...:no:

 

Couple photos of the contrast lighting housings and how they tighten. You can see how they're suitable for various thickness'.

 

That looks more like it. This will probably be my last time installing Halo remodel cans. I ended up having to put screws in all the clips.

 

screwdriver and linemens. I tap at about a 45 deg angle until the inside tab sets flat with the inside of the can and then tap up, never had a problem.

 

I only know of one IC retrofit light, the Halo H99ICAT. It's fluorescent though. Comes in 13w and 18w versions. Not dimmable.

Re the Contrast lights, they are my absolute favourite by a huge margin. Nothing else I've worked on is as quick and easy to throw into a ceiling, with minimal frustration. They also come out easily if you need access to the JB or the ceiling cavity later on. You have to use a connector, yes, but in my opinion that's still better(and faster) than NM clips because you never have to fight the clamp and squeeze it with your needle nose to get it to hold your wires in. Once you have done a few of them you get a rhythm and the lights go up real fast. It is a bit annoying that there aren't push-in connectors already there but at least you get a nice solid connection forever.

What I generally do with a contrast housing is pop the knockout and stick the connector in, then strip NM and make splices before inserting through the connector. Wrap the fixture wires onto splices and twist marrette...finished. After using these, anything with spring clips looks like it dates back to somewhere around the bronze age. The transformers on their low voltage lights are very high quality too. Have not seen many burned out.

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What I generally do with a contrast housing is pop the knockout and stick the connector in, then strip NM and make splices before inserting through the connector. Wrap the fixture wires onto splices and twist marrette...finished. After using these, anything with spring clips looks like it dates back to somewhere around the bronze age. The transformers on their low voltage lights are very high quality too. Have not seen many burned out.

I do it the exact same way. Works perfectly and is nice and fast.

 

Sometimes they are hard to get the clips in all the way.I normally will take my screwdriver,and push up on clip gently=always works!!!I run into this problem with 4" cans alot,very rare with 5"-6".
goodluck

 

Alright, kinda new here, but just installed 20 of these on a job the other day. Had a hell of a time getting those damn clips to lock in. Turned out to be blown in insulation under the tab that locks onto the sheetrock. Guy in the attack brushed away the insulation and ta-da. They all locked in like a charm

 

I pulled the lights back out and made sure there wasn't any insulation under the clip/tabs. Still wouldn't lock in, had to put screws in them to lock them in place.

 

Screws to lock them in place.interesting