The continuous duty is built into the name plate rating it actually draws less. That’s not your problem. If I was a betting man it’s feed with number 12 and voltage drop is your issue.

 

we had one job in a recreation center that was wet stamped at 10 gage to the first device and 12 gage thereafter (all stranded MC cable). Some were dedicated circuits and the distance from the panel was over 100 feet easily for most circuits. I have NO IDEA why they did not use a local sub panel!!!

Depending upon the calculator you use (formula and wire rating) the maximum distance to carry 19 amps of current at 125 (5% drop) volt in 90 Deg rated 12 gage is only 87 feet. If it is over that I bet your breaker blows easily. I suggest that you find the supply voltage (for calculation purposes) and then follow the wire and calculate its distance or better, use resistance to find the length. This was an engineered defect most likely.
Then again....it could be that the device is actually drawing 19 amps continuous, this means that the upgrade will be required for a different reason, the effect is the same. If the device is drawing 19.001 then it needs service or replacement (or two or three conditions could exist)
Slay 301 is most likely correct.

 

Could be old breaker.
Sell him a new one.

 

Get an actual current draw while the treadmill is in use. I'd be inclined to not trust the nameplate, but if it is actually drawing 19amps you'll need to size things accordingly. Your best option might be to hardwire it.

 

The nameplate says 19 a. I would turn it on and take a voltage reading.

 

Is this a new machine or an existing one that is now giving trouble?

 

replace the breaker

machine could be getting old
breaker could be getting old

 

Treadmills are not exotic equipment, if it's any decent brand you should not need to get fancy, hardwire it, upsize the breaker, or etc. They're made to run on a cord and plug and they are not that fussy. Most of the time they're running way under their maximum loading.

Educated guesses are better than guesses. I'd measure first then I could make more educated guesses. All it takes is a line splitter, a clamp meter set (preferably with min-max-average, if it measures inrush even better) and a second meter to check voltage at the same time, also hopefully with min-max-average. If it's a 20A plug you'll probably have to make a line splitter (skin an extension cord) since the handy splitters for use with a clamp won't accept the 20A plug from the treadmill.

I suspect if you set up to monitor current and voltage and have someone (preferably over 200 pounds) get on there and run it hard for five minutes, you'll know whether it's voltage drop, a bad breaker, or an actual overcurrent.

 

Treadmills are not exotic equipment, if it's any decent brand you should not need to get fancy, hardwire it, upsize the breaker, or etc. They're made to run on a cord and plug and they are not that fussy. Most of the time they're running way under their maximum loading.

Educated guesses are better than guesses. I'd measure first then I could make more educated guesses. All it takes is a line splitter, a clamp meter set (preferably with min-max-average, if it measures inrush even better) and a second meter to check voltage at the same time, also hopefully with min-max-average. If it's a 20A plug you'll probably have to make a line splitter (skin an extension cord) since the handy splitters for use with a clamp won't accept the 20A plug from the treadmill.

I suspect if you set up to monitor current and voltage and have someone (preferably over 200 pounds) get on there and run it hard for five minutes, you'll know whether it's voltage drop, a bad breaker, or an actual overcurrent.

I agee with this except for hard wiring it. If this equipment done with a molded plug it was designed for 20 amps no more also you will lose your disconnecting means

 

19 amps is probably the max it will draw and only on the hardest incline etc.. I certainly would start with checking that all connections are tight and then chang the breaker

 

I wonder if an oversized person recently started using it.
If the treadmill is rated 300 lbs and there's a 400 lb person on it, ... increased load.

And the obvious questions - what is the treadmill doing when the breaker opens? Starting, running or stopping? And is it GFCI and/ or AFCI? And how sure are you there's nothing else on this ckt?

 

If they have another treadmill that’s the same, make up an extension cord and plug the troublesome treadmill into that circuit. Then do it the other way around. That should tell you if you have a machine problem or a wiring problem.

 

Also, did anyone do some work recently, like add a load to this "dedicated" circuit?

 

That's an AC90 connector. L16. If it wasn't for self-respect, you'd have none.

There. I said it.

 

🤣

 

OK, still not listed for flexible cord thou

And it's rated for NMD and AC90

 

Not an issue when it’s not inspected right? Lol

This adapter I made strictly to use with my greenlee hotdog pvc bender. It’s got a 20 amp cord on it and I could never find a 20 amp circuit.

 

There's also another issue with hard wiring and losing the disconnect means.

Imagine someone on there falls down, that machine is causing damage/ injury, and nobody can stop it.
Very bad.

Treadmills don't last forever. It may just be toast.