around here the poco limits the length of drop they will supply to any service
they also specify minimum 2" RMC for a roof jack (what we call it)

(i have never used a guy wire, i will not make extra holes over the living part of the house that could leak and cost me a lot of money)

i have done it on metal and shingle roofs
for shingle i use a lot of silicone and slip the rubber under the shingle
it usually has to be trimmed because of existing nails in the shingles
for metal i buy a jack that has aluminum reinforcing around the base that can be bent to closely fit the contour of the tin
lots of sheet metal screws and lots of silicone, including a gob on top of each screw

i always make sure that i can secure two straps below the roof and that the roof deck is in good enough shape to help hold the strain

an alternative that i have never tried would be to set your own pole about 5ft from the house and there-by remove the strain from the riser

 

I don't use silicone. I use black jack: roofing tar in a tube. Or a similar product.

 

I don't use silicone. I use black jack: roofing tar in a tube. Or a similar product.

View attachment 165276

it is easier to remove silicone than tar

i also tell ho that if it leaks its on them to hire a roofer to fix it
i have never heard any complaints

 

Most of what you are asking is in POCO's specs. Do you own one of their books?
I never used guy wires. I used 3/4 EMT the opposite direction of the POCO drop, IF required by POCO. Flatten and drill each end.
Go 2.5" GRC to avoid extra holes for supports.

Owning the spec book will help usually. Look it up while your there giving the quote.

I do not know where you are or type of roof so that one is on you.

 

1. The Canadian Electric Code recommends using a guy wire to support a mast if the span is over 30M (98ft) or the mast projects more then 1.5M (59in) thru the roof. Usually this means you don't need a guy wire. 95% plus of the services I do don't require a guy wire. I don't have a guide to installing guy wires, but how I do it: Figure out where to put your eye lag bolt, pre drill into a rafter. Put roofing tar (the roof repair stuff you can get at any hardware store) in and around your hole. Install eye lag bolt, apply more roof tar to the base of the eye bolt. Tension your guy wire so that the mast is slightly out of level to the anchored side, so that when the overhead line load is attached, it pulls the mast back to level.

2. Boots/roof flashing are not that bad to do. Here, all of our masts are 2 1/2" rigid pipe. I can buy a 'mast kit' at my supply house that has the hub attachment for the meter, 3x 2 hole straps with lag bolts to attach the mast, the service head for the top, and the boot to go thru the roof with. Mount your meter with hub, drill hole thru soffit and roof. Generally you can oversize the hole thru the roof a little bit to give you room to level the mast, the boot will cover quite a bit. On the roof, use the boot flashing plate to work the bottom of the shingles loose just above your hole. The flashing plate will slide under the shingles above it. Water runs down a roof, so as long as things are overlapped working downwards, it won't leak. Put your mast up thru the roof and flashing plate, attach to wall. Back on the roof, pull the rubber boot down over the mast till it seats onto the flashing plate. This will keep water from running down the mast into the roof. Screw or nail the flashing plate down to the roof. I usually do 4 screws, one on each corner. The 2 screws on the high side, try to lift the shingles up and get the screws underneath the shingles (harder to do in winter). Use roofing tar over the screws, and I also usually try to put some under the sides of the plate as well. No tar on the bottom edge, so that any water that does get in, has a way to flow out.

3. If the anchors pulled out of stucco, chances are they missed the stud originally and only screwed to the wall sheeting under the stucco. Find a stud, drill or chip thru the stucco, and anchor to a stud. Silicone around your bolt. For the point of attachment on the facia, if it won't support the load, then either move the attachment point to an under eave mount, a wall mount, or tell the home owner they will need to replace the facia before you re-anchor to it.

 

from my hands and what ever else it gets on that it shouldnt

 

Clothes is more of a pain, but any roofing tar on hands or tools comes off really easy with WD40. Gas would probably also work in a pinch.

 

also i recommend you buy a 1/4" .. "bell hanger bit" (the best way i found to get one long enough)
as stated above either mount or mark your meter hub center line and drill exactly vertically up through soffit, roof, and all ... watch out for 2x4 framing in the soffit
next drill your 3" hole (for 2 " RMC) in the soffit and then down thru the roof, remember to hold the hole saw level, the hole will be wrong if you drill parallel to the roof angle

 

Amateur, 22 LR nice and plum.

 

i always have silicone on the truck, so that is the main reason

 

Professor Van Hackensack and I had long debates about the merits of silicone. In my opinion it does not hold up long term in direct sunlight. I don't get all that nervous about making holes in an asphalt shingle roof, it's easy to seal up. I only use products specifically sold for roof repairs.

If the rafters are exposed in the attic, to anchor the guy wire, put a section of 2x8 between the rafters just under the roof. Drill through the roof and the block and attach an eye bolt with a nut and heavy washer on both sides. Put the sealant between the washer and the roof, then once it's tightened, more sealant over the washer.

I've also used 3/4" EMT for guying as @SWDweller says, it's often quicker and easier than getting the wire, thimbles, etc. and there's no question it's strong.

 

i dont rely on the silicone staying on the roof exposed
i put it just under the edge of the boot so that some squishes out, but there is plenty under neath that will last