[splatz]

That's what vacuum's are for. Typically you would do your layout, mark all the holes, drill &tap (I like to use self-tap wafer screws), install the rails and panduit. Finally, after a thorough cleaning, the devices are installed. And of course, wiring.

Never used a perforated back pan, might try one in the future. I worry about the grid size dictating my layout though.

Anything that means less vacuuming is a good thing. Once the panel is in there's shavings falling behind the panel and it's hard to get them all.



That's a good point about the layout, but this one I am doing I drew up with generous space between the rows so I think it will be fine, I can adjust. One where I was shoehorning everything in there with no space, it could be an issue. Then again worst case, you can always drill holes between the holes.

 

[joe-nwt]

Anything that means less vacuuming is a good thing. Once the panel is in there's shavings falling behind the panel and it's hard to get them all.



That's a good point about the layout, but this one I am doing I drew up with generous space between the rows so I think it will be fine, I can adjust. One where I was shoehorning everything in there with no space, it could be an issue. Then again worst case, you can always drill holes between the holes.

I do the drilling with the back pan on the bench and drop it in the panel after all the screws are in. That way there is less chance of any shaving getting left behind. Still have to vacuum all the wire strippings when complete.

 

[joe-nwt]

Example:

 

[scotch]

When I was an Apprentice in the U.K. we used perforated panel for backboard often for field mounted instrumentation and control panels .Used lots of perforated cable tray as well ; up to 18" width for both copper pneumatic lines and the electrical cables since they were mostly copper pyrotenex cables.

 

[gpop]

Actually the heck with it, with the predrilled holes I'll just put twice the screws to hold the DIN rail to the panel, 14 gauge is still pretty stout.

I wonder how breakers, etc are going to be mounted directly to the back panel. Ive honestly no clue if theirs a industrial standard on screw spacing.

 

[gpop]

I do the drilling with the back pan on the bench and drop it in the panel after all the screws are in. That way there is less chance of any shaving getting left behind. Still have to vacuum all the wire strippings when complete.

Most of my work is panel upgrades in the field. The cabinets are stainless so we generally gut them then install a new back plate and build on the fly.

 

[460 Delta]

The perforations mean it will be even easier for someone to mount a definite purpose contactor in there with a sheetrock screw down the road.

I believe the proper shortcut is to use a long Tapcon screw rammed in crooked and forced against the enclosure back pushing the back pan out.lain:

 

[garyevp@gmail.com]

I float a 12 gauge aluminum sheet for DIN/component and Pandit mounting inside my control panels - easy to drill and tap and holds heavier components.

 

[splatz]

You should buy it.

I DID!

I just sent out the panel I built, a 30" x 36" packed to the gills. I was in such a rush to make my deadline, I forgot to take pictures so you jackals could tear my work apart.

I was able to do my layout very fast. I cut the DIN rails and slotted duct and set everything out, played with it until I liked the spacing, then screwed everything in. It is a pretty significant time savings and everything comes out perfectly spaced and perfectly square.

I used the wafer head screws to mount the slotted duct, and drilled and tapped 10-32 to mount the DIN rail. I actually tacked everything down with the wafer screws first then went back, drilled and tapped 10-32 holes and used ground screws for the DIN rail.

I am sold, I will probably buy a perforated back board whenever I have more than a couple items to mount in the future.

 

[243648]

I DID!

Both?


BTW, I don't even know what we are talking about here.