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Greenlee tugger

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14K views 44 replies 12 participants last post by  WronGun  
#1 ·
Can someone recommend a greenlee tugger model that is versatile for many different jobs? I’m looking for 6000lb tugger and I like the portable ones that roll around. I’m not sure which direction to go with. Originally was just going to look into a floor mount, but it wouldn’t do any good for long UG exterior service runs.


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#2 ·
Take a look at the Itoolco 10k. Their reel jacks are good too.

It rolls around and is very versatile being able to shorten/extend the boom with rigid pipe, etc.

Greenlees pull too slow for me. We've had our 10k and put it through it's paces for the last 4 years or so. Put it into places and positions a Greenlee just isn't able to do.

Cannon 10K™ Wire Puller – iTOOLco
 
#3 · (Edited)
Can someone recommend a greenlee tugger model that is versatile for many different jobs? I’m looking for 6000lb tugger and I like the portable ones that roll around. I’m not sure which direction to go with. Originally was just going to look into a floor mount, but it wouldn’t do any good for long UG exterior service runs.


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Get the greenie with the cart and all the bells and whistles. It’ll be pricey, but it will outlive you.

Maxis also makes a decent 10k tugged with cart, more versatile and lighter than greenlee
 
#4 ·
If you want a 6000 lb puller, go with the Super Tugger (model 6001) and get it with the Versiboom cart. Look at a Greenlee model 6004 and 6005 for the kit. Whatever you do DO NOT get a UT6. They make it sound like a nice 6000lb compact puller, but then they rate it as a 4000 lb continuous, 5000lb intermittent, 6000lb momentary. I've hated what they did with their part numbers. The UT8 is a true 8000lb and the UT10 is a true 10,000lb, but not true with the G3, UT4, UT6. If you think you might need something stronger, go wtih the UT8 (model 6806 for the package). Basically the same as the Super Tugger, but comes with the 8000lb Ultra Tugger motor.
 
#5 ·
If you want a 6000 lb puller, go with the Super Tugger (model 6001) and get it with the Versiboom cart. Look at a Greenlee model 6004 and 6005 for the kit. Whatever you do DO NOT get a UT6. They make it sound like a nice 6000lb compact puller, but then they rate it as a 4000 lb continuous, 5000lb intermittent, 6000lb momentary. I've hated what they did with their part numbers. The UT8 is a true 8000lb and the UT10 is a true 10,000lb, but not true with the G3, UT4, UT6. If you think you might need something stronger, go wtih the UT8 (model 6806 for the package). Basically the same as the Super Tugger, but comes with the 8000lb Ultra Tugger motor.
So these units also work like a floor mount model ?

It seems unlike a floor unit these can also pull into exterior cans when you don’t Have the option to mount overhead wheels.


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#6 ·
I posted on this topic before...Green pullers are antiquated and too HEAVY...they dropped the ball in the puller market 15 years ago and other manufactures took ball and slam dunked it.

In the 6K range puller Itool and Maxis(I think they are south wire now) have better models and the weigh alot less than greenlee.
 
#13 ·
Doesn’t it make sense to buy something that can handle more ?

If I’m going to spend on a tugger does it make sense to go with a G10 for instance. I don’t have a need for that power at the moment but who knows what I’ll be doing in 5 yrs.

These things seem to keep value very well. Some of these units on eBay look 10-20 yrs old and beat up and they still asking $3,000-$4000 for a floor mount unit.

I really like the hand cart that the G6 uses.


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#14 ·
Doesn’t it make sense to buy something that can handle more ?

If I’m going to spend on a tugger does it make sense to go with a G10 for instance. I don’t have a need for that power at the moment but who knows what I’ll be doing in 5 yrs.

These things seem to keep value very well. Some of these units on eBay look 10-20 yrs old and beat up and they still asking $3,000-$4000 for a floor mount unit.

I really like the hand cart that the G6 uses.


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exactly my point, don't go with the G6 Turbo. The UT10 may be overkill unless you have some big work planned. You're probably better off with a Super Tugger (6000 lb) or UT8 (8000 lb), and just rent the 10 if you ever need it.
 
#21 · (Edited)
I’ve pulled with a boom tugger twice in my life. I’m not that old but in my time everything we did was with a floor mount and pulleys. If a can is 15’ high off the ground what good is this machine? It looks likes they all need to clamp onto a conduit, I’ve watched 30 YouTube videos last night. I think I rather stay with greenlee. A G6 with a floor mount kit option would be the most ideal I just wish it was a tad bit stronger. At the same time I think the G6 will handle all my needs. I can get my hands on a mint condition floor model/ demo unit for $4500. Seems like a decent deal, or I could get new for $6000.


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#31 ·
I think you should demo a unit first. A tugger is a considerable investment, just like buying a car.

I would highly encourage you try and demo a Cannon 10k before purchasing this. For us, we had our Greenlee UT10 on a particular project, but it was cumbersome and hard to get into the places we needed it to. We called up and asked to demo a Cannon 10k, of course the sales people were more than happy to do it. Used it for a bunch of wire pulls over a couple of days and then bought one. The greenlee has now been sitting in the tool room for the last few years at this point, unused.

Like I said before, those type of Greenlee's without a boom have two major flaws. They're slow and not very adaptable to different pulls without ordering/making brackets to fit each pulling scenario or putting a boom on it.

If you're in this for the long haul, it would be money WELL SPENT to find something with wheels and a boom. By the time you spread the cost out over years of ownership, it doesn't really add up to much/year. Also, you will will realize that one of those UT10's even on the high speed of 16ft/min, is incredibly slow. The Cannon 10k at 40ft/min is a comfortable speed even when dealing with bigger wire if you have it set up right.

I've done 500CU 400' through 4-90's with just two of us. And it was a comfortable pull, not a back breaking type pull, where you are flat worn out when it's finished.

No wheels, no boom, and slow pulls cost you money in additional labor. Take into account your reduced long term lower labor costs versus the short term lower upfront purchase price.
 
#32 ·
The boom and wheels are really nice, most times you can get it done with just that and the adapters unless you are pulling out of a box way up or something else odd.

You can always accumulate as you go or as you find deals. No matter what you're gonna accumulate, our one greenlee lives in a 24x48 gangbox wit all the extras that have been added along the way and its heavy, forklift, overhead or one of use that has a crane on our service rig has to move it.
 
#33 ·
Getting ready to order the tugger, I believe I need another piece to puzzle.

It’s been a while for me since I’ve done this.


I’m going to mount the tugger on the floor. I’m pulling into a trough im installing about 8’ high on the wall (2” emt). Do they make some sort of sheeve attachment I can mount to the threads on the pipe so I’m not pulling down scraping the side of the connector or even pulling the pipe outward due to the weight ? I could pull before mounting the trough but in this case I think I would need some sort of floor mounted pulley in order to pull straight down to the floor


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#34 ·
Getting ready to order the tugger, I believe I need another piece to puzzle.

It’s been a while for me since I’ve done this.


I’m going to mount the tugger on the floor. I’m pulling into a trough im installing about 8’ high on the wall (2” emt). Do they make some sort of sheeve attachment I can mount to the threads on the pipe so I’m not pulling down scraping the side of the connector or even pulling the pipe outward due to the weight ? I could pull before mounting the trough but in this case I think I would need some sort of floor mounted pulley in order to pull straight down to the floor


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If you can't you set up with the pulley on the end of the boom inside the trough, can you pull first and then thread the trough on the wire?
 
#35 ·
they don't thread in, but Greenlee makes the feeding sheave that slides into the pipe. I asked my sales rep in the past, he said even though they are made for the feeding end, many people use them on the puller side. Especially if you are pulling down on an angle, the sheave insert will lock up inside the pipe and not pull out like if you were pulling straight out of the pipe. Otherwise, a Hook Sheave mounted to the ceiling or floor

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#40 ·
I'll show you what I use on almost every pull that needs a puller. It's old and slow like Cow mentioned earlier, but there are workarounds to speed things up and make things easier. If your not doing big pulls on every job this is another way to go, for a lot less cost and bulk.

Years ago with a partner we bought a smaller boom puller without any accessories, like your getting ready to do. Every time we tried to use it we would damage the enclosures or the piping. I hated it, until I looked up the accessories. I didn't want a pipe adapter required for every pipe size, and different pulling setup, but they had a clamp on model that would work on all pipe sizes. When we got that, things got a lot better. Then I learned better, how to work with it in many various situations.

Well that was many years ago. When I went solo it was time to procure another unit, just like you are. I shopped around and got a used kit from a tool dealer, with the gang box. It's a full kit, but still didn't suit my needs most times, and there's a lot of bulk to haul around, similar to what a cart puller requires.

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I wanted a small clamp on head, like I used to have, that suits the machine work I normally do. One day driving down the road I saw a small rope sheave laying in the road, likely fell off of some utility truck. Stopped and picked it up to make myself the head attachment, like I wanted. It needed to fit 1-1/2 to 4" for my work. So from memory I fabricated one up like the one I had used previously. The sheave is small and fits in much tighter areas than the ones that came with my kit.

I took a decent look online at photos and couldn't find one of the old Greenlee models like we had, so I went in the back and snapped some photos of the custom creation, to give you the idea. Never did make time to paint it, and have used it for years. Shame on me.

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To avoid pulling the wire assembly around that small sheave, and damaging it, I make an extension to the pipe run for the length of conductor I need for termination. Most jobs just need a 30º or 45º bend to get you outside of the enclosure, and whatever length you need. I now have a collection of extensions that I reuse on projects, stored in a barrel.

The thing I like about this setup is it's compact and portable. One man can move and set it up. It can be setup just about anywhere, and extended with pipe for whatever length the job requires with some rigid. I have even used it set up in a manlift for some ceiling pull boxes that needed splicing.

Most setups I screw a rigid coupling on the conduit connector in the panel or box, add a set screw connector for an EMT extension. Bend up an extension piece to suit the job at hand, and set up the puller as required. I put a rigid nipple at the end of the extension to clamp my angle head to so it don't crush and come loose during the pull. Depending on the extension length needed, it may need a temporary support for the weight of the assembly and the wire.

When the pull arrives at the end of the extension, I stop there, and remove the setup. Slide the extension off of the conductors, train the conductors to where they need to go, and button up the run.

Here's an example of a setup about 15' above the floor for an isolation transformer for a machine load.
Some 2" EMT with 3#/0 AWG about a 150' run, no muss no fuss and no skinned insulation.
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#43 ·
Creative setup. I may need to expand my equipment for this, but this is what I was thinking.

Instead of pulling into a can I would install the pipe down to the floor, no factory bending. And supporting it with strut on the wall and 3/8 steel anchors on the floor twice.

Then I would just remove the last section of pipe and slide the trough up the wall.
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