I have a Dymo 5000 that uses the 1/4 - 3/4 heat shrink tubes. It'll go through a cartridge pretty fast it you print each label individually but if you print a bunch of them together leaving a space between each one, you'll get a lot more per cartridge.

I use scissors to cut between the spaces, it takes a bit more time but I think it's worth it.

Here's an example......

P103 START DI17 | P104 START DI18 | P105 START DI19

P103 START DI17|P104 START DI18|P105 START DI18

Then top line is individual, the | is where the built-in cutter cuts. The | on the lower line is where you cut with scissors. You can see how much heat shrink it saves.

 

Thanks, I was actually just thinking about using the terminal block feature on my printer so it will put a line where I want to cut it with scissors. Or I will put a few spaces. I burned up a complete cartridge real fast letting it cut each label for me and then I had to trim each one because they were too long. The cartridge on the p touch is like 4.9' for the heat tubing vs 25' for standard labels.

OK well its time to order some more labels. I ordered too many of the small labels (I can't use) because they said they were 1/4" width and didn't realize that wasn't ID or OD. I only had 2 cartridges of the 8.8mm(3/8) width that works well for #14 & #12. Used them on small projects, and thought I had more tubing than I did.

 

I too have gotten in the habit of running off long strips of label and cutting them up.

 

I use a K-Sun machine. You can get 1/8 tubing for small wires. You can print more than one line on a single shrink. doing this, you can print the destination on one line and the origin on a line directly below it. Essentially doubles your shrink capacity. On larger shrink you can do more lines one above the other.

The K-Sun has a symbol library that comes in handy as well.

 

I use this the one. I went backwards from what you are doing. I started cutting my own, but found my time was more valuable than the wasted label cutoff. Also I think it is nicer job when they are all same size. Yes it wastes label tape but price it in and it is a better job.

 

Just curious as to what you guys do to label wires in a control cabinet. I have been using my label maker with the heat shrink labels and the labels get eaten up pretty fast. I wouldn't mind so much but half of the label roll gets wasted when using the heat shrink tubing (bother p-touch). I was looking into getting some of the clip on numbers to help speed things up. I haven't found a good source for ones that would work on a wide range of sizes and they get kind of pricey for labels. Most of the control wiring is 14ga or 12ga MTW and 20ga MTW for the low voltage.

I've heard there are some hacks (workarounds) available online for some of that malicious company's products to make it stop wasting the tape. That is 100% by design just like the printers which count the sheets and won't work after n number of sheets to force you to buy new toner even though the canister is still half full.

One by one I eliminate companies I'll never do business with again. Top of the list is Xerox. Don't ever buy any of their products.

Since you brought it up I think I'll try it on mine today.

If you post your model number maybe someone will find the process and post it for everyone.

 

I've heard there are some hacks (workarounds) available online for some of that malicious company's products to make it stop wasting the tape. That is 100% by design just like the printers which count the sheets and won't work after n number of sheets to force you to buy new toner even though the canister is still half full.



One by one I eliminate companies I'll never do business with again. Top of the list is Xerox. Don't ever buy any of their products.



Since you brought it up I think I'll try it on mine today.



If you post your model number maybe someone will find the process and post it for everyone.

Brother P-Touch-E550W


I was complaining about it to my wife saying it has to be on purpose. She just said I was crazy lol

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I use the Brady BMP51. I use it fairly often with the heatshrink, but the labels are sized on the roll so I don't find there is much waste unless I don't print the entire label.

There is a wide range of label types for this model, but like anything else, once you buy into the brand you are stuck with it; although I don't have any complaints about this unit. I have had if for about 5 or so years... no issues with performance or getting media stock for it.

Cheers
John

 

I use the Brady BMP51. I use it fairly often with the heatshrink, but the labels are sized on the roll so I don't find there is much waste unless I don't print the entire label.

There is a wide range of label types for this model, but like anything else, once you buy into the brand you are stuck with it; although I don't have any complaints about this unit. I have had if for about 5 or so years... no issues with performance or getting media stock for it.

Cheers
John

When I worked for an Allen-Bradley (Rockwell) SH a lot of our panel-building customers used the BMP51, and seemed very happy with it.

 

I think the main distinction lies in your use case--If you're building a lot of new panels or putting on a significant number of labels, a full-size printer is much more economical in the long run. We use the Canon/Nisca Cable ID printers which are capable of printing on loose tube (sized per wire size to fit snugly over the insulation), heat-shrink tube, adhesive labels, terminal strip markers, and a few other media. They run around $800 for the printer but the ribbon cartridges and media are incredibly economical and last forever in the quantities they are available. Here's a link to the product page: https://ftn.canon/en/product/cable-idprinter/. The Mk2600 is definitely worth the price over its Mk1500 counterpart if you do have any interest in going this route.

 

dymo or brady BMP21, both allow you to make labels for individual cables

 

We use a TLS2200.

Looking on Brady's site, it's discontinued. I did not know that, since we still get ribbon and labels for it.

Looks like they show a BMP61 as an alternative. Looks a lot more user friendly to if a person can load a list into it and have it print, rather than entering them all manually with the TLS2200, as I do now.

We buy the Brady 1000 count reel of heatshrinkable labels for our control cabinets.

I like them.

I can't stand those machines that waste tape, we used to have a portable Brother that did that.

https://d37iyw84027v1q.cloudfront.net/Common/TLS2200_BMP61_Printer_Comparison_Guide.pdf

 

Either a Brady TLS2200, or a third party to print them. Give them the list, quantity and size, and it saves me from typing 10,000 tags on site and they are ready for when we start terminating.

 

From a service tech, SHAME on ALL ya. The only labels that should be used are the self laminating type. SOOOOO many times i have come across the other types rubbed off, smeared beyond recognition, or faded to oblivion. Think of us poor chaps that have to troubleshoot your panel 10 years later. Thanks for listening

P.S **** those clip on ones... wtf ya thinking with that crap?
Also those horrid tubes that don't shrink onto the wire are absolute trash.

 

I've never seen a faded heat-shrink label. Of rubbed off or smeared. Could you post a pic of some?

I've removed panels I've built 20+ years ago and the labels still looked new. I used a Critchley LM1600 back then, one of the first portables on the market. Still have it, still works but tired.

 

Just curious as to what you guys do to label wires in a control cabinet. I have been using my label maker with the heat shrink labels and the labels get eaten up pretty fast. I wouldn't mind so much but half of the label roll gets wasted when using the heat shrink tubing (bother p-touch). I was looking into getting some of the clip on numbers to help speed things up. I haven't found a good source for ones that would work on a wide range of sizes and they get kind of pricey for labels. Most of the control wiring is 14ga or 12ga MTW and 20ga MTW for the low voltage.

I've heard there are some hacks (workarounds) available online for some of that malicious company's products to make it stop wasting the tape. That is 100% by design just like the printers which count the sheets and won't work after n number of sheets to force you to buy new toner even though the canister is still half full.

One by one I eliminate companies I'll never do business with again. Top of the list is Xerox. Don't ever buy any of their products.

Since you brought it up I think I'll try it on mine today.

If you post your model number maybe someone will find the process and post it for everyone.

Label->Margin->Chain Print. When it asks you to feed and cut, just say no. It's really easy. Though don't cut it until you're done with several prints, or you'll chop through the text of your last one. Give that one a bit of feed.

 

Label->Margin->Chain Print. When it asks you to feed and cut, just say no. It's really easy. Though don't cut it until you're done with several prints, or you'll chop through the text of your last one. Give that one a bit of feed.

I did that and changed it back.
Thanks though.

 

A panel I just did last week. I just did label-single space-Label-single space-label-single space-etc and it worked out great. I used scissors to cut in between each single space. I am still pissed that it puts out about 1 1/4" and then forces me to press the cut button(digital button) and then proceeds to waste another 3/4". Just a total waste, even if I have to waste a little I don't want to cut. I have to look at the settings and see if there is a margin I can get rid of.

 

Face it guys, all wires should be professionally labeled. There’s a price to pay in both material & labor but customers will notice & appreciate it.

 

I’ve been using this for the past 6 years. Sometimes I will even make a tube from the jacket of a #4 or larger wire to wrap the label around then slide it over the wire or multiples you want to identify. Then you can rotate it to face out after you land the wires.

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