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Landscape lighting

15K views 35 replies 18 participants last post by  nrp3  
#1 ·
Currently designing a landscape lighting job for a very good client of mine.

Using high end LED kichler lighting fixtures.

Even though I’m not experienced in this area , I’m jumping in and doing it.

As I research this subject I’m starting to learn there’s a lot to it.

My question is for anyone experience in this area is what types of lights are you using to wash the front of the house all the way up to the eaves.

Is this what they call a directional ? And what degree of light is common? They start at a 10 degree and go up to 65 degrees.

Im purchasing over 36 lights all between $200-$400 a pop, I’d say I need to get this right....

Image



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#5 ·
I don't care how "high end" they are, $200-$400 per fixture for LED landscape lights is completely, and totally absurd. For that they should install themselves.
Wait till the homeowner see's what you're going to do to their landscaping, and lawn.
Ditch witch through the rose garden....yeah...buddy. Don't forget to watch for sprinkler lines. You'll know which way they run, when you hit them.
 
#6 · (Edited)
You get what you pay for, and looking at these fixtures it’s obvious they aren’t from a Home Depot Kit.

We are replacing an older halogen system that I believe is around 15-18yrs old. The older system also looks like it wasn’t cheap. Stainless steel transformers I would say are high end.

The installation is around the perimeter of mulch beds with flowers and trees and not crowded.

I plan to use a deep hedging spade for burying wires.

Also some hardscape lighting has been wired into stone stairways, they still work .... but we are replacing them to led kichlers.

Ditch witch for LV lighting ? Not a chance

Their also having us install a kichler gateway and LED controller to operate the lights from their phones. With 2 separate zones one in the front yard and another in the back this ends up being a $2500 option !



I guess when you have money to blow you can have fun...

Why buy a $200,000 Ferrari when an $18,000 Toyota will also get you from point A to B?

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#11 ·
For that kind of money there's no way you should be designing it. Like Mike said, have the supply house send out a designer. Just install the lights where they put the flags. They'll Wright the fixture type on the flag. Connect the dots, and not have to worry about if it could have been done better or have a better look.
 
#12 ·
Wrongun Please step back and rethink your lighting design.
I do outdoor lighting and sprinkler work. I hate to see you make the common mistakes.
I know you will have some questions so just ask.

The Kichler pro led controller you picked is a good one.You have a DC voltage transformer rated for 50 watts at 7 amps per zone (connection). They come in 100,200,300 watt. Each zone can be loaded to 50 watts with max 7 amps. So a 100 watt will have two 50 watt zones, 200 will have 4,300 will have 6. This is very important to understand when using the phone app. You need to wire all your zones to match the customer needs. Example - In the back yard you have lights around the pool and lights uplighting trees. If the home owner wants the pools lights on separate from the tree lights you will have to wire (zone) them on two different taps.

Now you know how many lights you have on a zone you need to size your wire for the total watts and voltage drop. This is easy to do just look in the manual.I like the secondary 7 amps DC instead of 25 amps AC on most transformers. This allows smaller wire without having to add a inline fuse on the 25 amp transformer.If the fuse blows someone will put anything in there to get it to work.

The Kichler pro led controller has built in astro timer. I never used the gateway but i would check the signal where the controller ts located.I have used the remote once and it works very well. Multi controls can be linked and you can control other items (pond pumps 120 volt etc) using Zwave and relay.

The light you posted is a 120 volt light.:wink:You need 12 volt. There are better lights available for less.Look for something in the 2700k for a better look, 3000k is very white. Remember your controller is DC but you can use most led lights available.

My thought on buying fixtures is very easy. If you can kick it and it breaks you bought the wrong light.Those lights you posted will break . You need to look at lights that are solid cast brass with a stout knuckle. Thats the weak point on every light. Integrated lights are best. Drop in bulbs can be a problem with the kicking, the bulb come out. And never put a light fixture in turf.

Good luck.
 
#14 ·
Wrongun Please step back and rethink your lighting design.

I do outdoor lighting and sprinkler work. I hate to see you make the common mistakes.

I know you will have some questions so just ask.



The Kichler pro led controller you picked is a good one.You have a DC voltage transformer rated for 50 watts at 7 amps per zone (connection). They come in 100,200,300 watt. Each zone can be loaded to 50 watts with max 7 amps. So a 100 watt will have two 50 watt zones, 200 will have 4,300 will have 6. This is very important to understand when using the phone app. You need to wire all your zones to match the customer needs. Example - In the back yard you have lights around the pool and lights uplighting trees. If the home owner wants the pools lights on separate from the tree lights you will have to wire (zone) them on two different taps.



Now you know how many lights you have on a zone you need to size your wire for the total watts and voltage drop. This is easy to do just look in the manual.I like the secondary 7 amps DC instead of 25 amps AC on most transformers. This allows smaller wire without having to add a inline fuse on the 25 amp transformer.If the fuse blows someone will put anything in there to get it to work.



The Kichler pro led controller has built in astro timer. I never used the gateway but i would check the signal where the controller ts located.I have used the remote once and it works very well. Multi controls can be linked and you can control other items (pond pumps 120 volt etc) using Zwave and relay.



The light you posted is a 120 volt light.:wink:You need 12 volt. There are better lights available for less.Look for something in the 2700k for a better look, 3000k is very white. Remember your controller is DC but you can use most led lights available.



My thought on buying fixtures is very easy. If you can kick it and it breaks you bought the wrong light.Those lights you posted will break . You need to look at lights that are solid cast brass with a stout knuckle. Thats the weak point on every light. Integrated lights are best. Drop in bulbs can be a problem with the kicking, the bulb come out. And never put a light fixture in turf.



Good luck.


Good info .

The pictures are just example , those are not the lights I’m purchasing. Kichler came out with some new products and I found some of the older version directionals on clearance for around 140-170 with the correct specs. Integrated LED.

The walkway lights they want are the most costly.

Luckily I only have 2 zones in the Front yard and 1 in the back yard but they are not integrated into 1 system they are completely separate from each other.
Which is why I need 2 transformers and 2 controllers ect. For front and back.

I’m still figuring out the led controller setup. Haven’t seen many diagrams online on how the led controller and transformer connect.


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#17 ·
Have you tried AMP lighting? It's the same company but it's set up for contractors so people can't see what you paid for stuff. Also prices are slightly better. They have one floodlight that is programmable for all outputs and interchangeable lenses for beam angles so you can stock just one fixture for a lot of uses.

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#20 ·
Wrongun .,

Just becarefull with the conductor distance especially with low voltage system like 12 volt is pretty common for landscaping luminaires and I have see few Volt lighting too over here and yes they are not bad on price but pretty well built for our conditions so I can justify it.

you need to read the specs on the luminaires what you want and see how they use " termation " spice or kits to hook up to the landscape lumianires.
 
#21 ·
Wrongun .,



Just becarefull with the conductor distance especially with low voltage system like 12 volt is pretty common for landscaping luminaires and I have see few Volt lighting too over here and yes they are not bad on price but pretty well built for our conditions so I can justify it.



you need to read the specs on the luminaires what you want and see how they use " termation " spice or kits to hook up to the landscape lumianires.


I used the equation to figure out I need to use 8/2 wire..

I have (2) runs of 100’

I realize there is a voltage drop at every fixture but how is this avoided?

I was told I should start the first light termination in the middle of the run and then break off 50’ to each direction.


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#22 ·
I like those transformers with multiple taps...12v -17v

We had 1 house roughly the same as your describing. Lights kept flickering.

Ended up putting 1 circuit on 15v and the slightly longer circuit on 17v. No more flickering.

This setup was installed by another company, we were called because of the lights flickering.

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#24 ·
Yep!
Start @ 12 and 13volts....if you have any issues bump it up. Hopefully it will be enough to resolve any issues.

We use the same transformer on our landscape lighting.

Worse case scenario, you return it for one that goes to 17v.

But Im sure others with more knowledge will chime in and may have a better solution.

I never heard of starting the circuit in the middle. Not sure how that will work, but looking forward to how it turns out.

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#27 ·
I don't know if this holds true for all the led landscape lights, but I found myself trying to increase voltage drop to get the voltage into the spec called for by the step lights I installed this summer. It said the life span would be less if above 12v (I've forgotten the exact figure). Think it was looking for 8-11 or something to that effect. Just added a bunch of thermostat wire inside at the transformer to drop it down. It was a short run so there wasn't anyplace for the normal losses.
 
#29 ·
Florida used to require licensing for landscape lighting installation. You could be an EC (highest level electrical contractor) or an ES (electrical specialty limited energy) but they repealed the requirement maybe 2 years ago.

Now any old Joe can sell landscape lighting installation services.

Bigger jobs and bigger properties, bigger companies, the more affluent population, etc. are still going to use their favorite sparky.
 
#32 ·
And the quality. If the stuff only lasts until the first freeze you're not going to be called back (except for warranty work) or recommended by that customer. Sell them very high quality, give them great service, charge large and you'll get the reputation for being the guy to call for getting the job done right the first time.