Fire alarm cable has a 300v rating. And there are some other small gauge control cables with insulation ratings up to 600v.

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The other option you can use is 12-2-2 NM cable it will have two conductors in conventaial marking ( common is Black and white ) and second set will have a stripe along it so you can use second set for 0-10V dimming system.

but yes there is some other cable you can use in small size too but I dont have the type listing with me.

 

crazy expensive way to do it

 

The 18/2 that's made for security and etc. has 300V insulation.

http://www.southwire.com/ProductCatalog/XTEInterfaceServlet?contentKey=prodcatsheet398

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwi...re-500-ft-18-2-Gray-Stranded-CU-CL3R-Shielded-Security-Cable-57573144/202316266

The shield might help prevent picking up induced voltage on the dimming circuit.

 

Look at 725.135(K) for the types of Class 2 circuit cables that can be used.
If the wiring shares the same junction boxes look at 725.136(D)(1).

 

Just use thermostat/bell wire. It's rated for 150v. If you are still concerned about the voltage difference, run your fixture purple/grey wires outside of the fixture and splice to the bell wire outside of it. At the switch end, splice scraps of 600v wire to the 0-10v leads/terminals and splice again to the bell wire outside of the box.
Or you could just use 12/2 romex for your switch leg and 14/2 romex for the 0-10v. Certainly cheaper then 12/2/2.

 

any industrial pvc jacket control cable will do the job.

 

That's what I do. 16-2, 18-2 SSTP Belden cable, Fire alarm cable, thermostat wire, chime wire, whatever's handy. As long as the cable jacket says CL2 on it, you're good.

 

I bought the 18/2 shielded security cable someone linked to earlier. Project has already been inspected without, I just thought it would make sense to add provision for 0-10VDC dimming as I see more and more LED fixtures are available with this option.
Thanks for all the help.