So I'm working on a project for the house, im putting up some outside lights (Mercury Vapor lamp) to light up the yard a bit, my question is, can you run UF sunlight rated romex overhead? What is required? I've heard you need a messenger wire and that it should be grounded. So my plan is to start from the breaker panel with a 15 amp breaker, run some 14/2 regular romex to a new switch by the backdoor, and on the load side of the switch, ill run some 14/2 UF cable down the wall and outside and run it underground, then to the service entrance pole, i will run it up to a mercury vapor lamp at the top of the pole, then from there I will run some more 14/2 UF to another pole with another mercury vapor lamp and end the circuit there. Would this be code, ive rarely seen it done, and i just wanna know if I would need a messenger wire and if so, what kind of wire do I use and should it be grounded?
Metersocket648
Overhead Wire
Aerial conductors to a shed
I have a client who wants to add lights and plugs to a shed. I was planning on doing an aerial drop from the house to the shed, but I was hoping to clarify a few code issues: According to 340.12, UF cable can be run as overhead cable if it's labeled sunlight resistant and installed as...
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Maybe you can still buy the old farm lights. They were good and cheap in their day; even had a photocontrol.
We had MV on the farm rented from the REA for 5 dollars a month, including the electricity
In 20 years the light had dimmed as it turned green. The utility came out and changed the bulb thinking that the extra light would be appreciated. My mother called everyone up to the Managing Partner until a line man came out with an old bulb. Seems the light went through their bedroom window.
I have never used UF like that in my career. You might have an idea.
I have always used AL triplex for service drops. It comes with a messenger and is not all that expensive. Overhead to me means your going a long distance, you allowed for that.
Smallest AL triplex is line #6. What would concern me is over the seasons your homemade messenger and support system could fail. The other good thing is there are hangers and associated product made for supporting the Triplex, something that your going to have to work out.
Personally I would not even install MV, sucks to work under at night. We have all hung stuff for customers that we did not like. Their money their choice.
In 20 years the light had dimmed as it turned green. The utility came out and changed the bulb thinking that the extra light would be appreciated. My mother called everyone up to the Managing Partner until a line man came out with an old bulb. Seems the light went through their bedroom window.
I have never used UF like that in my career. You might have an idea.
I have always used AL triplex for service drops. It comes with a messenger and is not all that expensive. Overhead to me means your going a long distance, you allowed for that.
Smallest AL triplex is line #6. What would concern me is over the seasons your homemade messenger and support system could fail. The other good thing is there are hangers and associated product made for supporting the Triplex, something that your going to have to work out.
Personally I would not even install MV, sucks to work under at night. We have all hung stuff for customers that we did not like. Their money their choice.
I'd just use aircraft cable as the messenger. I've used 1/8" as a messenger before with no issues (1700lb breaking strength). For larger wiring I'd use larger cable but 14/2? You're fine with 1/8" unless you're doing a LONG run...
Messenger should be bonded. Not 100% sure of the best way to do this, it might be easiest to just use a lug and land the "tail" of the cable in it.
I'd install it with standard porcelain insulators just because they're cheap. I think you could use eye bolts, but I don't know 100%.
Not sure about the USA, but up here, certain zip ties are approved for cable support, so we just zip tie the cable to the messenger.
Messenger should be bonded. Not 100% sure of the best way to do this, it might be easiest to just use a lug and land the "tail" of the cable in it.
I'd install it with standard porcelain insulators just because they're cheap. I think you could use eye bolts, but I don't know 100%.
Not sure about the USA, but up here, certain zip ties are approved for cable support, so we just zip tie the cable to the messenger.
250 ft is a looong run. Your droop will be 4-6 ft, and even more in the summer.
I would use triplex rather than a homemade setup.
Most power companies set triplex poles 100' apart and the high voltage 250' apart
I would use triplex rather than a homemade setup.
Most power companies set triplex poles 100' apart and the high voltage 250' apart
Speaking of long runs, I was referred to someone who owns a property not far from my camp who was having trouble with the electric service. So I call him one day while I'm out there and agree to stop by. I pull up to this place and immediately noticed a fuse box on a pole. One leg had a blown fuse. From the first pole the service fed what used to be a single wide trailer (now a house), and a garage. Then, six more poles down back to a kit barn, with each pole tapped to feed flood lamps for a stone road. The kit barn was easily 7-800' from the road. There were no transformers anywhere. The poles had to be at the end of their expected life span. Conductors appeared ok, but I chose life and didn't get up there to check them out. I asked the guy about who owned the property before him and he said "They were a handful of retired electricians from Canada and this was their vacation property. Everything you see here was left over material from jobs over the years".
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I never found out what he ended up doing about it. It wasn't a job for one man that's for sure. Sorry kinda long but thought I'd share that one.
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I never found out what he ended up doing about it. It wasn't a job for one man that's for sure. Sorry kinda long but thought I'd share that one.
Split bolts and tape were the choice way back when. Now, they use Burndy YH series of crimps,( you need a tool like the MD6)
Splices are open, no JBs.
Just make sure you spread out the conductors so the splices have space around them.
If I were to do this, I would cut the triplex at each pole, and tie off each cable. Makes it easier to make your splices and secures the triplex at every pole
At your feed end, think of a service entrance, only feeding backwards into the line. same kind of connections
Splices are open, no JBs.
Just make sure you spread out the conductors so the splices have space around them.
If I were to do this, I would cut the triplex at each pole, and tie off each cable. Makes it easier to make your splices and secures the triplex at every pole
At your feed end, think of a service entrance, only feeding backwards into the line. same kind of connections
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