There is few ways you can install the float switch but however you should able find the main tank opening that where majorty of tank float switch genrally be located.

but ya you can installed the float switch in that narrow 4 inch pipe but ya have to remove each time the tanker come and pump it out due most use 2 inch or larger hose to suck the crap out of the tank.

I dont have the specs with me a moment but one of the most common float switch they use same design on sump pump but much longer cord on it.

 

There is few ways you can install the float switch but however you should able find the main tank opening that where majorty of tank float switch genrally be located.

but ya you can installed the float switch in that narrow 4 inch pipe but ya have to remove each time the tanker come and pump it out due most use 2 inch or larger hose to suck the crap out of the tank.

By tank opening do you mean like a door hatch that's underground? I'd rather have something more permanently installed if I could do it doesn't have to be removed each time but if it comes to that I will.

 

www.acwholesalers.com/Little-Giant-...IBRCEzKHK0KiCrKMBEiQA3--1NiCsjG9yaTj2-6nmzisdqPlJAGDHjzUtvaVtrhpnJs0aAl8a8P8HAQ

Tie that into the light
20ft cord should be long enough
Can always splice some SJ cord depending where you put the light

Actually that one may be normally closed but they have them in normally open as well.







Seen As A Tiny Blip From Space

 

www.acwholesalers.com/Little-Giant-...IBRCEzKHK0KiCrKMBEiQA3--1NiCsjG9yaTj2-6nmzisdqPlJAGDHjzUtvaVtrhpnJs0aAl8a8P8HAQ

Tie that into the light
20ft cord should be long enough
Can always splice some SJ cord depending where you put the light

Actually that one may be normally closed but they have them in normally open as well.

I might go with this thanks.

Here's a start
https://www.septicsolutions.com/septic-parts/septic-tank-alarms/outdoor-high-water-alarms

This might be better

Spoiler

Yeah I'll see what other people have to say.

I might just have to do some digging then. Any idea on how deep those hatches are?

Thanks for the tip, I'm still not sure which float switch I'll be getting. This isn't a rush job it's just something he would like to have.

One of my former home have spectic tank and the latch is about 75 CM down so for your area it can be anywhere from half meter to a meter down depending on style of hatches is.

That's not too deep I guess. Hopefully I pick the right side though to start if I do for.

 

Here's a start
https://www.septicsolutions.com/septic-parts/septic-tank-alarms/outdoor-high-water-alarms

 

In all my daze, this has been a turd hurder's problem... never mine.

I wire up the leads, I don't sweat how the float switch went down the hole.

 

Why don't you drill a hole in the cap and hang the float from a cord grip, and put a plug on it a foot or two above the cap. Then they could unplug and remove the float when pumping out the tank.

 

I've never seen them pump a tank through a 4" pipe, they use a much larger hose anywhere I have lived. Normally there is a grease layer that needs to be broken up to pump out.

 

There exists very little on the market that can withstand a methane atmosphere.....~CS~

 

I have only installed the pump switch high water alarm combo panel.

Here is a Canadian company that could help you out.

https://www.amresupply.com/catalog/Alarm-Systems-PH1X

 

All of the alarms that I've installed have been low voltage. Typically the alarm mounts inside the house and is plugged into a standard 120V outlet. Wire is run to the tank and spliced into the float switch wire.
The Float is tied off below the upper tank level. The float must turn upside down to set off the alarm.
Float hanging down or floating on top = Open circuit
Float upside down = Closed circuit - setting off alarm

Without being there, I'm not sure what you can install in the tank to tie the float off to.

 

State of the art, 20 years ago.

The plumber is the one who told him an electrician has to hook it up.

Here, the septic installers, not plumbers set the float hights and the run time(time dosing), electricians wire them.

Floats have to have a pivot point to turn, otherwise they just lay sideways. So using the pipe is not going to work. You need to find the cover. Use a long thin rod to probe for it. Here's a picture to show you the correct setup. Trust me, I've done a lot of these.

 

Okay I'm starting to get an idea here. I think drilling through the lid is probably the best option here since I don't know where another opening is if there is one.

What if I used a piece of threaded rod or chain attached to the lid (Chain is probably better) to put the float down and I'll zip the the wire to it or something maybe pull it through the chain loops. I think chain would be enough to weight it down so the float can go upside down. Now I'm just wondering what I should do for when it comes out of the lid. I can't keep it as one wire or when they go to unscrew it it'll just tangle and they won't be able to open again. What if I mounted a weatherproof plug on the garage since it's only around 4 feet from the hatch and used that as like a splice for the float? Just feed the plug from the alarm box and label it for the tank only. Also just install a single receptacle instead of duplex .

Thoughts?

 

Before you do anything, you need to check your local codes. I'm n0ot sure about Canada at all, but here, some states have codes that classify all sewage tanks as hazardous, meaning you would need Explosion Proof devices and seals. That would not at all be practical in this case and the guy might be better off with a simple dip stick.

 

Before you do anything, you need to check your local codes. I'm n0ot sure about Canada at all, but here, some states have codes that classify all sewage tanks as hazardous, meaning you would need Explosion Proof devices and seals. That would not at all be practical in this case and the guy might be better off with a simple dip stick.

The solution is to shift over to intrinsically safe logical circuits... namely the voltage across these switches drops to 1.5 VDC... or some such.

Then you're right back in business. :thumbsup:

 

What's the explosion proof float look like?

 

Alright I'll tell him that the plumber or the septic people have to do it. Otherwise I'll just go with one of the water alarm modules instead of a regular float switch on a light.

Thanks for the input btw