Buy a panel with a main breaker, drive a ground rod, run a gec to the rod.

 

One should favor 1,1,1,8 IMHO. I like Aluminum for my Hots, Copper for my bonding and grounding conductors.

The raceway :: 1 1/2" PVC schedule 40. I'd rather have a loose pull.

Distance -- might make me bump up the conductors -- but I assume that this is a nearby out-building.

It's still going to need a Ufer or other Grounding Electrode System as it is not an attached structure.

Ask This Old House showed just such an install a few years back. It's on Utube.

 

The 6 stroke rule applies here, so if you are going to have more than 6 circuits, use a main breaker.

If it's new you need to install a UFER (attach to the rebar). If it's existing you need to drive a ground rod, which would mean 2 of them. If there is metal pipe you need to bond it.

Never run copper conductors, that is just silly.

 

225.30 Number of supplies. The six rule is mandated to conform to circuits approved by 225.30 and 225.30 doesn't allow up to six disconnects for a separate building downstream of the service disconnecting means unless they meet the provisions of 225.30 (A) thru (E). (You might be able to wrangle (E) since it is kinda vague who decides what is proper documentation and operation).........

 

I see... It's a new structure 150ft away as I was told, but I think they already have the foundation done, so I am guessing UFER is not an option anymore and then I would just need to install 2 electrodes

Ive recently done a small shed with 40amp subpanel (bathroom and sauna), ran 8/3 UF, inspector didn't mention anything about the need for grounding rods

 

Why would you rely on the inspector to tell you the right way to do the job?

 

You need a main disconnect, not necessarily main ocpd though but it's allowed. That being said, a main breaker panel is usually your cheapest option. Run a separate ground from the house and wire it like a subpanel Ground and bond it like a main service, but tie them to the separate ground bus, not neutral.

 

Maybe I haven't done many new construction homes I've never done or heard of UFER before. It was always 2 electrodes. I'll note that

 

Ma may not require the ufer or concrete encased electrode . Nc still does not enforce the concrete encased electrode- I wish they would.

You do need an electrode at the shed if you install a panel. You need 2- hots, neutral and a ground. I don't know why the inspector didn't make you put it in...

 

Well hopefully he doesn't request it at the final then. He did check the entire job careful, even measured direct burial distance

 

He ..... even measured direct burial distance

Why?

 

Yes, I that's what I meant

 

Any recommendations which wire to run in PVC underground for 100amp sub? I mean is there anything else besides separate THHW x 3 + ground? I think maximum UF cable size is 6/3

 

#2 AL mobile home feeder works great if you can live with a 90 amp sub.

The price per amp ratio can't be beat either.

https://www.mysouthwire.com/medias/..._master/product-specifications/product-specifications/hd1/h71/8854083567646.pdf

 

Owner doesn't care if run Cu or Al. He actually priced all materials himself and included Cu. I usually run UF inside the pipe for protection, just wasn't sure if there is anything else with outer insulation that would work. It will be a pain to get PVC pipe all the way to the house panel. UF works great because you can run it inside PVC underground and when you enter the house no pipe is needed anymore

 

You should charge for copper and use aluminum.

Getting cable into pipe is a giant pain in the ass.

 

Depends on the pipe size I would rather have cable inside the pipe then do piping all the way to home panel and sub. So I am guessing there is nothing like SER with insulated ground.....

 

Some folks will pull individual conductor, mhf, or similar into pipe. Then j-box it at the house with insulated taps or whathaveyou to change over to a cable wiring type like SER, etc for going through the house.

 

Alright thanks guys. Plan is to use #2 AL mobile home feeder for 90amp panel in 1 1/2 PVC, and for 40amp garage panel use 8/3 UF with same 1 1/2 PVC

 

On the other thought.... Why SER is not underground rated? Ground is not insulated but UFER ground is not insulated either

 

338.12 (A) (2) Uses Not Permitted. ... Underground with or without a raceway [regarding SER cable]


However the stuff I have seen has the individual conductors marked XHHW so it seems if the jacket was removed it would be OK.


I believe you should switch the bare aluminum ground to insulated or copper though because the water that always accumulates in the pipe would disintegrate bare aluminum after a while.

 

338.12 (A) (2) Uses Not Permitted. ... Underground with or without a raceway [regarding SER cable]


However the stuff I have seen has the individual conductors marked XHHW so it seems if the jacket was removed it would be OK.


I believe you should switch the bare aluminum ground to insulated or copper though because the water that always accumulates in the pipe would disintegrate bare aluminum after a while.

That happens to be the answer to the question he asked. The bare alum will go to powder in an underground ser wire pull if the teeniest hole in the sheath is present down there. And I don't think the insulation on SER is rated for fungus either. Sunlight and water- yes. Fungus amongus - no.

 

They do have SE/SER copper, but specs don't say it's underground rated but individual conductors are