I'm assuming this is for counter tops and cabinets mounted above them. IF so, how low are your upper cabinets. Receptacles required for counter tops are to be no higher than 20" above the counter top. 210.52 (C) 5.

 

Excellent post. I had a scenario where a customer didnt want any counter wall outlets cut into the tile and didnt want the tile cut either so only full tiles were used so the upper cabinets were 24 inches off the counter and that they wanted plugmold outlets on the bottom of cabinets like they saw in a magazine. I politely told them 210.52(C)5 prohibits that scenario so lower uppers or I put the outlets in the wall. They chose to put outlets in the wall as they had taller uppers and planned on installing trim so that they had crown moulding.

 

I hate plugmold. We just installed 4- 3' or 4' runs and had to replace every one of them. Apparently, one receptacle in the middle would work on and off on every unit. Of course, it didn't just happen at the same time so we had to make 4 trips. Fortunately, the job was just a few miles away.

We use Legrand plugmold. Tr rated also.

 

IMO, you are currently using the best viable product ie the angled wiremold. Its not your concern about how a product looks. The customer doesnt want boxes in the back splash area so you have limited options and as I stated before I think the angled wiremold is the best product not only for looks but for installation and use also

 

Are you serious that it is not our concern on how it looks. It is one thing if the customer asks for a particular product but I would never install the angle stuff without a consent from the customer.

It better look good when we are done or we didn't do a good job. My job is to make sure the customers are happy with what they are getting.

 

Legrand also has the Adorne line with angled receptacles too. Haven't tried it, only seen it.

https://www.legrand.us/adorne/products/under-cabinet-lighting-power.aspx

 

Legrand is the best answer. That system includes receptacles, switches, dimmers, under cabinet lighting, speakers, USB ports, CAT6 and communications all in one installation. It's not cheap.

 

I've used the wiremold counter top boxes in a spot where there was no backsplash.

 

I like the low-profile look of regular plugmold versus the bigger angled stuff. I haven't actually put any regular plugmold in a kitchen yet, but have installed quite a bit of it. I have put in the task lighting angled stuff, and it is pretty damn bulky. Seems like the wood butcher could rip an angled piece to go below tight below the cabinets and mount regular plugmold to that, and it would look way better.

Reading this thread also jogged my memory. The first electrical job I worked on was helping my old man when I was 14 or 15 putting in about 400' of plugmold in an addition. We used insulated butt splices to tie on the romex, and it was all painted so we had to be careful installing the covers. I remember rolling out the snappy coil and trying to tuck everything together and using a wood block and a hammer to snap the covers on without pinching any of the wires and keeping the receptacles in their little openings. Good times.

 

I've used plastic wire mold and the shallow boxes. Unless you're really short you can't see it. Be mindful of box fill and don't plan on putting a gfci in any of them.

I hate working on plug mold especially when upside down.

I'm still waiting for a job to use an angled wire mold as it seems the best option as an electrician.

 

the angled plug mold is great for kitchen islands...you just have to convince the GC or homeowner to go with a slightly longer overhang

 

Plugmold is the most evil stuff ever invented. I have had the displeasure of installing it in a few kitchens in the past year. I don't know how they can continue to make a product that is so incredibly difficult and tedious to install and has absolutely no user friendly features at all.

 

I always carry a rubber mallet when installing plugmold.
The worst is running 2 circuits staggered in it. Next time I will use insulated crimps!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

Legrand makes connectors for the plugmold for the wire but they are expensive. We use wire connectors similar to the ones that you use in fluorescents as a disconnect. They are a lot cheaper

 

In the NEC is there a different fill % for wireways like plugmold compared to raceways?

In the CEC, raceways are limited to 40% fill where wireways are limited to 20% fill.

 

Metal raceway

(A) Cross-Sectional Areas of Wireway. The sum of the cross-sectional
areas of all contained conductors and cables at any

 

For some reason it didn't copy all of the section

(A) Cross-Sectional Areas of Wireway. The sum of the crosssectional
areas of all contained conductors and cables at any
cross section of a wireway shall not exceed 20 percent of the
interior cross-sectional area of the wireway.

 

It should have said wireway, not raceway

 

Making sure it will fit where you want, that you have all the fittings and pieces needed to do the job, and can you cut it where you need to if you need to and in a way that doesn't damage the finish or distort it. I'm sure its pricey.

 

A portable bandsaw works wonders on wiremold.

 

Crimp connectors on Romex? Not ok. Crimp connectors are for stranded wire. Which is a smoother install, Task or Plugmold?

 

You’re a little late to the party.