I normally drill stucco with a concreate drill bit with the hammer action turned off until im through the stucco coat. Then i apply a little clear silicon in the hole and use stainless screws as rusty screws like to stain the wall.

Im in Florida so we don't have the problem of water freezing behind the stucco causing it to separate so maybe someone has a better idea for northern climates.

 

Stucco can be a real headache depending on how it was applied. If the homeowner knows enough to be concerned, it might be because they've had trouble with this stucco before.

@gpop 's tip to use the drill without hammer is a good idea, to prevent cracking it or shaking it off the screen when drilling.

That stucco looks too bumpy to count on silicone to seal. If you run the screws through a big ball of duct seal between the box and the stucco, that will work better IMO.

That's a lot of stuff and a lot of holes. IMO better to hang everything on either two vertical struts or plywood hung on two vertical furring strips. You could do that with three or four 1/4" holes on each side, six or eight holes versus twenty holes. The only downside is the appearance and the cost - both small IMO - and if the homeowner is concerned about their stucco they won't mind either.

 

I stopped using silicone because it seems to break down with time. Also it is about $10.00 a tube. I like a caulk like the OSI brand. It is very sticky and holds up well. Unlike silicone, it can be used with many different surfaces.

 

My favorite caulk is #900 SOLAR SEAL it’s tenacious stuff, says so right on the tube. Industrial grade UV resistant comes in many colors and lasts for many years. Just don’t use it on anything you want to take apart, you will have to cut it off.

Sealant, NPC SEALANTS Product-Data

NPC Sealants, a division of Nu-Puttie Corporation, has been providing over 200 standard colors of high quality sealants to professional contractors since 1928.

www.npcsealants.com

 

Mount it all to strut and allow for air flow behind the gear.

 

I like the idea of mounting the gear to thin strut mounted vertically.

What about bringing the 4/0 SER into the back of the right hand disco? 2" pvc ta back to back with a 2" fa to a 2" RX connector and goop sealant around the penetration? Of course a plastic bushing on the ta.

Or, 2" pvc box adapter back to back with a 2" fa to 2" rx connector

 

Here in the deserts of the SW USA stucco is the surface of choice.
I use shallow strut and with some best guesses find the studs and drill away with my small rotohammer with the hammer off. SS lag bolts work well for frame walls.

Only big difference I would do is mount one of these. Then put the panels inside or outside.
We typically put the panels inside.

 

What SW, NoBot, and Splatz said. Whenever we need to mount to our EIFS sided buildings, we cut back and use strut mounted to a base plate then build out to a smooth finish. In looks like an inset and elimates the holes which could be leaking and not detected for a while. The baseplate is easier to access for sealant inspection and we don’t have to remove any mounted equipment. I can get some pix on Monday.

 

This was one of our cleaner installs. I’m glad I went to take the pix, those wires need some help. I didn’t install the coax, that was a contractor