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TYCO Romex Splice Kit

112K views 82 replies 24 participants last post by  pdblais  
#1 ·
Anyone had any experience (good or bad) with the TYCO Romex Splice Kit? It's supposed to be compliant with Article 334.40.b. Making electrical splices or connections without a junction box bothers me.
 
#12 ·
90.1 Purpose.
(A) Practical Safeguarding. The purpose of this Code is
the practical safeguarding of persons and property from
hazards
arising from the use of electricity. This Code is not
intended as a design specification
or an instruction manual
for untrained persons.
Accessibility to a junction box shouldn't be in the code in the first place. But apparently Tyco passed around big enough envelopes of cash to the CMP to get around it.
 
#22 ·
I believe that the Romex NM splice kits were developed for the manufactured home and RV industry. The assemblers would just plug the romex together as they put together the pre-fabbed wall panels. My brother has a manufactured home and they have those inside the wall where the two halves join. Naturally somebody found they were listed and could be used in other locations.

Never plan on using them myself.
 
#33 ·
Back in the day, the 1900's, the local chief electrical training officer who taught an evening code class would go out of his way to tell us that if it was a 20amp or less nm cable, and we were not taping off of it, it was perfectly acceptable to repair it with a metal handy box & cover and bury it back inside wall.
A lot of guys in the class thought this was novel and went out with new religion.

At the end of the course I carefully asked him to show me where the code made this possible...
 
#40 ·
Yes, but IMO "need to" is as simple as the customer wanting it that way.

Their house, their rules. It's NOT a safety issue so the NEC doesn't apply.

If a woman doesn't want to see a cover plate on the ceiling of her dining room, she gets to make that decision, not some corrupt CMP member.
 
#43 ·
Even though there are NEC rules that I knowingly break (for example, I'm still stapling romex under joists in crawls instead of drilling),

I don't like buried boxes

Or the kit in question

Only ones I've ever seen are in mobile homes
Yup and in that case they fit right in with the other half-assed wiring methods and devices.

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#44 ·
I am new here but been doing this for about 25 years. I have recently seen these splice kits and feel the same as some others on here; They do not look reliable. I try not to splice in a wall, but we all know that sometimes it needs to be done. Whenever I have had to do it, I use a box, solder my splices, cap with wirenuts, and tape around the wirenuts. I don’t see how that cannot be better than one of those junk splice kits.
 
#45 ·
I try not to splice in a wall, but we all know that sometimes it needs to be done. .
No it doesn’t. It can always be done properly, there never has to be splices in the walls, it just takes more work. In Canada we can not use these, no splicing in walls allowed yet we manage to still get the job done.
 
#47 · (Edited)
OK BITCHES FOR ONCE AND FOR ALL I AM ABOUT TO SETTLE THIS CONTROVERSY

I have some bad news for some of you.

Here are the instructions for the device:

http://www.te.com/commerce/Document...fication+Or+Standard408-4504-1HpdfEnglishENG_SS_408-4504-1_H.pdf1116377-2

Here is the Application Specification:

https://www.te.com/commerce/Documen...cification+Or+Standard114-10045CpdfEnglishENG_SS_114-10045_C.pdf1116377-2

Look at section 3.3 on page 2 of the Application specification.

3.3. Installation
A. Factory
Type NM-1 and NM-2 devices must be factory installed on the free end of a nonmetallic sheathed cable. The
Type NM-3 device is must be factory installed anywhere along a nonmetallic sheathed cable. The cable
must be prepared (cut, stripped, and formed) to allow the device to be assembled in only one position (to
maintain the integrity of the polarity arrangement). The conductors and stripped cable jacket are completely
within the enclosure and strain-relief cover. When used to connect expandable or dual-unit mobile homes,
the connector ends are to be located where they are protected from moisture and physical damage during
transport to the mobile home lot.
B. Building Site and Dwelling Site
The separate modules of a building or dwelling assembled on location are to be connected electrically by the
simple plug-in connection (including a mechanical latch) of mating pairs thereby providing circuit continuity.
The connected pairs may or may not be fastened in place. The connected pairs may or may not be
concealed by the installation.
AS SOME MAGNIFICENT BASTARD MAY HAVE MENTIONED THIS IS FOR USE WITH MANUFACTURED / MODULAR HOMES

and by hacks and Home Depot Demons every weekend.
 

Attachments

#48 · (Edited)
OK BITCHES FOR ONCE AND FOR ALL I AM ABOUT TO SETTLE THIS CONTROVERSY

I have some bad news for some of you.

Here are the instructions for the device:

http://www.te.com/commerce/Document...fication+Or+Standard408-4504-1HpdfEnglishENG_SS_408-4504-1_H.pdf1116377-2

Here is the Application Specification:

https://www.te.com/commerce/Documen...cification+Or+Standard114-10045CpdfEnglishENG_SS_114-10045_C.pdf1116377-2

Look at section 3.3 on page 2 of the Application specification.



AS SOME MAGNIFICENT BASTARD MAY HAVE MENTIONED THIS IS FOR USE WITH MANUFACTURED / MODULAR HOMES

and by hacks and Home Depot Demons every weekend.
Good to know. I've used them before. They suck, I'd rather hide a wire nut in the wall than that thing.

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#50 ·
Now that I think about it, levernuts are perfect for burying and should be listed to do so.

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#52 ·
I like the handi box idea. I normally try to get it under the house or into the attic. Another idea I have been using is to locate the junction box behind the mirror in the bathroom if it's removable. I do a LOT of bathrooms lately.

Thank you Splatz for the info on those damn plugs. I was under the impression that they were listed for use in the wall but never looked into it because they seemed like a bad idea



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#66 ·
Here is an example that 220/221 posted a long time ago:



That is (4) #12's. I'm sure with less #12's or #14's the hand twisted conductors would be even more twisted.

So that is bad, according to the facts and studies? Should we stop twisting wirenuts on and just push them down onto the wires? :biggrin:
 
#67 ·
Here is an example that 220/221 posted a long time ago:



View attachment 133058



That is (4) #12's. I'm sure with less #12's or #14's the hand twisted conductors would be even more twisted.



So that is bad, according to the facts and studies? Should we stop twisting wirenuts on and just push them down onto the wires? [emoji3]
The facts are as I've studied my experiences, twisting wire takes longer and is a pain to break apart the wires when troubleshooting... especially fun when it's hot! Must be an East coast thing because its rarely done around here.

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#70 ·
So it's ok to use a junky Tyco connector buried in the wall of a modular or manufactured home. But you can't make a bulletproof splice in a box and bury it in a wall. Yes, I know one is subject to workmanship and one is not. But I know I can make a bulletproof splice and bury it and be totally fine with it lasting 100 years trouble free, just like all the K&T out there.