Anyone had any experience (good or bad) with the TYCO Romex Splice Kit? It's supposed to be compliant with Article 334.40.b. Making electrical splices or connections without a junction box bothers me.
Accessibility to a junction box shouldn't be in the code in the first place. But apparently Tyco passed around big enough envelopes of cash to the CMP to get around it.90.1 Purpose.
(A) Practical Safeguarding. The purpose of this Code is
the practical safeguarding of persons and property from
hazards arising from the use of electricity. This Code is not
intended as a design specification or an instruction manual
for untrained persons.
Yup and in that case they fit right in with the other half-assed wiring methods and devices.Even though there are NEC rules that I knowingly break (for example, I'm still stapling romex under joists in crawls instead of drilling),
I don't like buried boxes
Or the kit in question
Only ones I've ever seen are in mobile homes
No it doesn’t. It can always be done properly, there never has to be splices in the walls, it just takes more work. In Canada we can not use these, no splicing in walls allowed yet we manage to still get the job done.I try not to splice in a wall, but we all know that sometimes it needs to be done. .
AS SOME MAGNIFICENT BASTARD MAY HAVE MENTIONED THIS IS FOR USE WITH MANUFACTURED / MODULAR HOMES3.3. Installation
A. Factory
Type NM-1 and NM-2 devices must be factory installed on the free end of a nonmetallic sheathed cable. The
Type NM-3 device is must be factory installed anywhere along a nonmetallic sheathed cable. The cable
must be prepared (cut, stripped, and formed) to allow the device to be assembled in only one position (to
maintain the integrity of the polarity arrangement). The conductors and stripped cable jacket are completely
within the enclosure and strain-relief cover. When used to connect expandable or dual-unit mobile homes,
the connector ends are to be located where they are protected from moisture and physical damage during
transport to the mobile home lot.
B. Building Site and Dwelling Site
The separate modules of a building or dwelling assembled on location are to be connected electrically by the
simple plug-in connection (including a mechanical latch) of mating pairs thereby providing circuit continuity.
The connected pairs may or may not be fastened in place. The connected pairs may or may not be
concealed by the installation.
Good to know. I've used them before. They suck, I'd rather hide a wire nut in the wall than that thing.OK BITCHES FOR ONCE AND FOR ALL I AM ABOUT TO SETTLE THIS CONTROVERSY
I have some bad news for some of you.
Here are the instructions for the device:
http://www.te.com/commerce/Document...fication+Or+Standard408-4504-1HpdfEnglishENG_SS_408-4504-1_H.pdf1116377-2
Here is the Application Specification:
https://www.te.com/commerce/Documen...cification+Or+Standard114-10045CpdfEnglishENG_SS_114-10045_C.pdf1116377-2
Look at section 3.3 on page 2 of the Application specification.
AS SOME MAGNIFICENT BASTARD MAY HAVE MENTIONED THIS IS FOR USE WITH MANUFACTURED / MODULAR HOMES
and by hacks and Home Depot Demons every weekend.
The facts are as I've studied my experiences, twisting wire takes longer and is a pain to break apart the wires when troubleshooting... especially fun when it's hot! Must be an East coast thing because its rarely done around here.Here is an example that 220/221 posted a long time ago:
View attachment 133058
That is (4) #12's. I'm sure with less #12's or #14's the hand twisted conductors would be even more twisted.
So that is bad, according to the facts and studies? Should we stop twisting wirenuts on and just push them down onto the wires? [emoji3]