Electrician Talk banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
61 - 80 of 88 Posts
Discussion starter · #61 ·
They keep stray strands from happening. Particularly useful in terminal blocks or electronic equipment where the terminals are very close together and fine stranded wire is being used. Try one on a 22awg stranded going into a sensor terminal block and see if you don't grow to like them.

Though there's no reason one couldn't use them on any stranded wire where you don't need to wrap the wire around a screw. They even have doubles where you can crimp two wires together into one ferrule.

This is what I was trying to ask. I’m not saying I use the ones on Amazon, that’s just what came up with a simple google search. At my job we work in control cabinets all the time and we use these to prevent stray wires, and I was just curious if anyone does, or if they could be used in instances like when using stranded wire to help contain the stray wires.

I should have worded my original question to ask: Is it acceptable if I use the proper crimpers, with properly rated ferrules for my application, to crimp a wire ferrule on a piece of 12 gauge stranded wire to prevent stray wires and the insert said crimped ferrule connection into the crimp plate of the 20 amp receptacle. I understand that you can just insert the stranded wire into the crimp plate, as well as use fork terminals to also properly terminate the connections, but I was just curious if this was another acceptable form of wire termination. Must not be used very often in residential. Sorry for the confusion, and thanks for understanding what I was asking.
 
This is what I was trying to ask. I’m not saying I use the ones on Amazon, that’s just what came up with a simple google search. At my job we work in control cabinets all the time and we use these to prevent stray wires, and I was just curious if anyone does, or if they could be used in instances like when using stranded wire to help contain the stray wires.

I should have worded my original question to ask: Is it acceptable if I use the proper crimpers, with properly rated ferrules for my application, to crimp a wire ferrule on a piece of 12 gauge stranded wire to prevent stray wires and the insert said crimped ferrule connection into the crimp plate of the 20 amp receptacle. I understand that you can just insert the stranded wire into the crimp plate, as well as use fork terminals to also properly terminate the connections, but I was just curious if this was another acceptable form of wire termination. Must not be used very often in residential. Sorry for the confusion, and thanks for understanding what I was asking.
There is no reason to use the ferrule. I never really used the fork terminals either.

The best method is to use the higher grade outlets that have the hole and pressure plate, just stick the stranded wire in, it will make an excellent connection.

If you have normal outlets, then you can wrap the stranded wire around the screw. Use your strippers to make the cut into the wire about 2" down from the end, then pull that insulation up to expose only about 3/4" of copper wire. Wrap that around the screw and hold the loop tightly while tightening down the screw. Once it's tight, use your ***** to cut off that extra wire. Done. I've done this thousands of times with no issue. But in this situation I will usually wrap the outlet with tape just to ensure a stray strand doesn't pop out.
 
Discussion starter · #63 ·
This is what I was trying to ask. I’m not saying I use the ones on Amazon, that’s just what came up with a simple google search. At my job we work in control cabinets all the time and we use these to prevent stray wires, and I was just curious if anyone does, or if they could be used in instances like when using stranded wire to help contain the stray wires.

I should have worded my original question to ask: Is it acceptable if I use the proper crimpers, with properly rated ferrules for my application, to crimp a wire ferrule on a piece of 12 gauge stranded wire to prevent stray wires and the insert said crimped ferrule connection into the crimp plate of the 20 amp receptacle. I understand that you can just insert the stranded wire into the crimp plate, as well as use fork terminals to also properly terminate the connections, but I was just curious if this was another acceptable form of wire termination. Must not be used very often in residential. Sorry for the confusion, and thanks for understanding what I was asking.
There is no reason to use the ferrule. I never really used the fork terminals either.

The best method is to use the higher grade outlets that have the hole and pressure plate, just stick the stranded wire in, it will make an excellent connection.

If you have normal outlets, then you can wrap the stranded wire around the screw. Use your strippers to make the cut into the wire about 2" down from the end, then pull that insulation up to expose only about 3/4" of copper wire. Wrap that around the screw and hold the loop tightly while tightening down the screw. Once it's tight, use your ***** to cut off that extra wire. Done. I've done this thousands of times with no issue. But in this situation I will usually wrap the outlet with tape just to ensure a stray strand doesn't pop out.

In school I had been told that you could not wrap a stranded wire around a screw under any circumstances, and at my work they always use the fork terminals when wiring up receptacles and light switches. Thank you for clarifying. Does the same go for the ground screw? I have always used the fork terminals on the outlets that do not have the compression plate.
 
In school I had been told that you could not wrap a stranded wire around a screw under any circumstances
When people say things like this, if they don't say the reason why it then becomes your duty to ask.

Code, listing, or just opinion?

and at my work they always use the fork terminals when wiring up receptacles and light switches. Thank you for clarifying. Does the same go for the ground screw? I have always used the fork terminals on the outlets that do not have the compression plate.
Like I said, I never really used the fork terminals. Most of the time they would be better outlets with pressure plates. When they weren't I would wrap the wire.
 
Hide

Kid you just have to grow a little hide if you are going to be in the construction industry. Mr. Know-it-all's, they are everywhere, even on this site. They are always anxious to show you how much they know, so don't get embroiled with them. Just look over their replies for the grains of truth. Fortunately, there are many helpful men on this site with tons of great experience, so just sort through and have a good laugh at the puns from the wise guys and don't take it too serious.

As far as your question, use what ever works for you, as long as it is listed by UL (or other US agencies) for the purpose. The stuff sold on Amazon is often NFG so use at your own risk.

Doing side jobs is something we all have done. But be advised even if you are bootlegging all work should be done to code. Liability wise, and if you get caught you can get a permit and have the job pass without a major redo.

Hack is right, if using stranded wire get the devices that have the screw and square washer that will be spiffy for catching all the strands. Or use the fork terminal but those can be a PITA if doing a lot of receptacles.
 
Save
In a pinch I would wrap stranded around the screw. I would do it the way Hack described. Also when you strip off the insulation, and you stop just before it comes off, twist the strands counter clockwise real tight. It helps keep the stands from loosening up when you wrap it clockwise around the screw.

I wouldn’t want to do a bunch like that. Not because I think it’s bad. But because of time. If it takes longer to get some forks, then I would do it.

You did good holding your own too by the way.
 
The fork terminals are alright. If you reverse the twist of the strands and wrap the wire the right way (around the direction of rotation), the screws hold the stranded quite well. No idea about code or the UL listings on the screws. Also, don't mind these guys. They gave me the same grilling the first time I posted here. Glad to have you and help you learn along the way. Be careful with that side work, though. A mistake because you don't know any better can end your career for good. Also, here is some more info on the subject from over at Mike Holt forums:

https://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=141189
 
Are you suggesting the CEC doesn't?

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
Kind of, but not really. It’s one of those codes that can be argued forever and should be more clear IMO. 12-116(2) and (3)

I guess it is how you interpret the code, but it is a rule used by many to say stranded can not be used under a screw, including P.S.Knight. (See his interpretation of this code with illustrations in his simplified book)

Personally I believe as long as the stranded wire is terminated in a manner that confines all the strands so no stray ones stick out (many examples of how to accomplish that are in this thread) then your fine.
 
The fork terminals are alright. If you reverse the twist of the strands and wrap the wire the right way (around the direction of rotation), the screws hold the stranded quite well. No idea about code or the UL listings on the screws. Also, don't mind these guys. They gave me the same grilling the first time I posted here. Glad to have you and help you learn along the way. Be careful with that side work, though. A mistake because you don't know any better can end your career for good. Also, here is some more info on the subject from over at Mike Holt forums:

https://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=141189
That's my method. I counter clockwise twist the strands, wrap it around the screw, pinch the loop closed, and keep tension on the wire while I tighten down the screw. I''ve installed hundreds of thousands that way with nary a problem. I don't know that I've used forks on them. Probably early on before I got the hang of it.
 
Save
That's my method. I counter clockwise twist the strands, wrap it around the screw, pinch the loop closed, and keep tension on the wire while I tighten down the screw. I''ve installed hundreds of thousands that way with nary a problem. I don't know that I've used forks on them. Probably early on before I got the hang of it.
I have never twisted the conductor in the opposite direction. I have heard about it, but I believe it's the same as hearing that the neutral hurts more. I'm not saying that it is wrong, just that I don't believe it until I see the science behind it.

IMO, keeping the strands twisted as tightly as possible is the best option to keep them contained, and keeping the factory twist does that best.

Either way, pinching the loop closed while tightening keeps them all where they need to be.
 
Kind of, but not really. It’s one of those codes that can be argued forever and should be more clear IMO. 12-116(2) and (3)



I guess it is how you interpret the code, but it is a rule used by many to say stranded can not be used under a screw, including P.S.Knight. (See his interpretation of this code with illustrations in his simplified book)



Personally I believe as long as the stranded wire is terminated in a manner that confines all the strands so no stray ones stick out (many examples of how to accomplish that are in this thread) then your fine.
On an unrelated note, I was surprised to note yesterday while researching this subject that the rule saying the loop has to go clockwise around the screw only applies to aluminum conductors.

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
 
I have never twisted the conductor in the opposite direction. I have heard about it, but I believe it's the same as hearing that the neutral hurts more. I'm not saying that it is wrong, just that I don't believe it until I see the science behind it.

IMO, keeping the strands twisted as tightly as possible is the best option to keep them contained, and keeping the factory twist does that best.

Either way, pinching the loop closed while tightening keeps them all where they need to be.
It isn't really science, but more like geometry. By reversing the rotation of the strands, as you tighten the screw, the wire strands want to move tangentially to the screw. By reversing the strands, that tangential motion as you tighten is in a spot that is parallel and in the same direction of the wire itself rather an on the opposite end of the screw, thus helping with the issue of the strands splaying out as you tighten.
 
It isn't really science, but more like geometry. By reversing the rotation of the strands, as you tighten the screw, the wire strands want to move tangentially to the screw. By reversing the strands, that tangential motion as you tighten is in a spot that is parallel and in the same direction of the wire itself rather an on the opposite end of the screw, thus helping with the issue of the strands splaying out as you tighten.
I’m still not seeing it. The rotation of the screw and of the wire are on two completely different planes and I’m not seeing how one has anything to do with the other.
 
Thanks for any advice as I’m trying to expand my knowledge in the electrical field.

Doing substandard work on the side is not how you"expand your Knowledge" and I for one will definitely not help you do this. It is very easy to tell you really have no idea what you are doing yet.
You have insurance right? (roadhouse quote right there)
 
61 - 80 of 88 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.